House Plan 65870

A: 8’-9” tall

A: There is room for a space that is about 12’ wide x 22’ long with 5’ knee walls running the length on both sides. There is no stair shown though. That would need to be added.

A: Unfortunately do not have any.

A: Dashed lines indicate things that are above the floor level like ceiling treatments and beams.

A: 1421 SF is the first level only. The bonus adds 504 SF.

A: 70’-8” wide.

A: 600 SF

A: No, there is a bonus above in our plan. But if that were removed, it could be vaulted.

A: Yes. $895 for the PDF. Call Bonnie Drew at 800-482-0464 ex 405 if you would like to place this order.

A: We do not show gutters on our plans.

A: Our drawing shows a stick framed roof. Trusses would need to be design by a truss manufacturer. We also show a bonus room over the family room but that could be eliminated as part of the truss design. Changing from stucco to siding and shingles to metal roof should be no problem.

A: The fascias are called out by note on the elevations and the trusses are dimensioned and detailed on the plans. There are no “specifications” per se’.

A: That roof is showing wood shakes.

A: Assuming a 10’ left side setback and a 30’ offset from the property line for driveway, you would need 110’-8”. The house itself is 70’-8” wide.

A: They both already are equipped with space for flues, so they could be either wood burning or gas.

A: The bonus room is optional in this one. It does not have to be built.

A: We show a standard tub (30x60). To accommodate a larger tub you could bump the wall out to get more width. To get a longer length tub you would need to modify the plan slightly, to stretch that space. You could either take it out of the walk in closet or push the master bedroom back.

A: 988 SF

A: Foyer – 7-11 x 5-11 Bath 2 – 7-6 x 6-0 Utility – 5-4 x 6-8 Pantry – 4-0 x 3-3 Closets – 7-7 x 2-0

A: Yes, slightly. It adds approximately 30 SF to the utility.

A: The trusses are a custom item.

A: Ceilings are 10’ flat everywhere but the master suite which has a stepped ceiling to 11’.

A: he steps going down from the foyer would go away and become a closet.

A: Our plans include details of the exterior arches. We show the bonus option as standard in our plan with no interior trusses.

A: he stair also serves as access to the bonus above. So the fireplace stays where it is.

A: Yes, there is about 12’ of width(5’ tall sidewalls) x the length of the gable(24’). Only thing that needs to be figured out is stair location.

A: In the rendering, we have about 92’ total width.

A: 10 feet

A: They will have to be custom made by a timber truss company.

A: You would need a minimum of 8” clearance below the bottom of the basement wall for drainage. That would mean about 1’-8” from finish grade to finish floor on the high side.

A: Those are the outside dimensions. Its not a rectangle shape either, there’s lots of ins and outs. The heated area is calculated from the outside face of the exterior walls, following the perimeter. We do not have room by room SF’s. You can get a rough idea though by using the numbers labeled on our floor plans.

A: I guess it possible but not very practical for this particular design. A two story design with living areas on the lower level might make more sense.

A: We call those out to be cut from cedar but there is a company called ‘Fypon’ who can make those in molded millwork.

A: The attic over the garage allows about a 12’x22’ space that has 5’ tall side walls. With a 12:12 pitch that’s pretty easy for the average person to stand up in. The only thing you have to work out is a stair.

A: Yes. The lot would be best if it slopes away perpendicular to the back of the house.

A: Yes, that option is already available. See Elevation B.

A: Metal roof would work fine on this house. Our drawings show a 2’ above finished grade finish floor. If you need a 4’ high finished grade, there would have to be a modification to the drawing for a fee, but its an easy change.

A: Those are some pretty extensive modifications, but it could be done.

A: I’m sorry, we do not have that number readily available.

A: Not at this time, no.

A: They are 12x12 at the base and tapered to 8x8 at the top. We’re calling them out as rough sawn cedar.

A: 988 SF

A: Yes, the heated area is calculated to the outside face of stud which is the same area for 2x4 or 2x6. A third bay could be added in front of the garage that would project about 11’ or 12’ forward, almost inline with the front porch. Adding a toilet closet and doubling the size of the existing tub into a shower would add approx. 30-50 SF. Easily under 1550.

A: That will depend on your site. I would recommend a minimum of 8” above grade on the high side.

A: Stone and stucco.

A: If you are referring to the steps to the porch, they will be a function of how how the slab sits above grade and can be manipulated to raise it up if you prefer. The attached garage version does include a slab option as part of it.

A: We show 1421 SF of First Floor heated area. The basement area could be as high as another 1421 SF +/- depending on how much of it you wish to use. The garage is 600 SF. If you’re calculating covered area, don’t forget 248 SF of Front Porch and 314 SF of main level Lanai.

A: We show it to remain attic, however you could easily modify this with your builder/carpenter in the field.

A: No we do not.

A: Unfortunately, no.

A: No, neither.

A: There is no attached garage version yet. If there were it would attach on the right. The crawlspace height depends on your lot. I would seek to have at least a foot clear from the top of grade to the top of the foundation wall. That typically means about 2’ from grade to finish floor – minimum. David

A: It is 25’-8 1/4” from the finish floor to the top of the main ridge.

A: Our rendering shows shakes for the roof. I’d recommend a 300# comp shingle though with a thicker edge(timberline). The trusses would ideally be cedar.

A: Unfortunately, no.

A: The garage is not part of the heated area. The garage is 24’x24’ or 576 sf. The heated area of the home is 1421 sf.

A: The space above the garage is just attic but could be a loft if it had stairs. We will have an attached two car side loaded version in about 2 weeks.

A: We include a foundation plan(slab, crawl or basement), framing plans-stick framed(floor, ceiling and roof) indicating size and placement of joists, rafters and beams, one building section, all four elevations at 1/4” scale. Door and window sizes are labeled on the floor plan at each location on the plan rather than in a door/window schedule for clarity. Flipping back and forth from a schedule just causes mistakes.

A: It becomes a raised deck with a lower level porch as well.

A: We do not maintain that kind of info.

A: The lower level is 988 SF finished.

A: The rafter sizes would need to be enlarged as well as the spacing decreased. This would take care of any increased loads. Local framers would need what the standard size and spacing required would be.

A: The stair up to the bonus area is on the back of the fireplace and goes in the opposite direction as the stair to the basement.

A: None available at this time.

A: 600 SF.

A: Not yet.

A: Unfortunately no..

A: The attic is where we locate mechanical equipment. A fiberglass pan with a drain under the water heater makes it safe.

A: It's a new rendering...that could explain why it looks different. Regards

A: Yes!

A: Yes you can! Please click the "Modifications" tab above to get more information.